A Flat Path Can Be Difficult

Day 9, Friday, July 25.

12.3 Miles. 30,135 Steps. 6.5 Hours.

Cotswold Hare, Cirencester to White Hart, Cricklaide.

Ate breakfast while chatting with Kathleen, who seemed quite pleased to have an American to talk with about things she knew and remembered from her past.

Nothing had been said about there would not be a cooked breakfast. It was fine with me. It just seemed a bit strange to go into the breakfast room and not have the heavy odor of frying foods everywhere. Instead the table was well stocked with cereals, fruit, yogurt, croissants! I was very happy about the choices.

Two nights in a king size bed was a bit rough. They were too large. I woke up completely sideways.

Taxi driver collected me right on the dot of 9:30 AM, he drove me back to Kemble and told me stories along the way. One was while we were still in Cirencester involved that King Charles has a home nearby. It might be nearby, but it’s totally off-limits to anyone. He said there is a high wall and all you can see is a large gate which you can’t even see into or over.

Back in 1991 King Charles, then Prince Charles, was in the area, competing in a charity fundraiser polo match, and had an accident, fell off his horse and broke his wrist. He was taken to the local hospital. We drove by it and my driver was very pleased to point it out as a local landmark. Even though he doesn’t like the royalty.

First crossing a bridge over the River Thames - it was dry.

Had been walking on the road for a little section and it felt really good on the feet. I saw this monument and tiny village in the distance and was so happy to find a bit of shade to sit and have a drink of water.

Monument was to Queen Victoria.

While sitting there a car pulled up with a couple workers to restore an old stone house. And in a little bit later their boss drove up with a truck and a trailer with supplies. That man asked me what I was doing. I said I was on the Thames River path. He said no you’re not. We talked back-and-forth and apparently when I took that first photo of crossing The dry Thames river I missed my signage.

Dry Thames

Gentleman gave me directions how to catch the trail by going down a long road, turn here, here, and there. I followed his directions until I came to an intersection where I saw a hiker standing looking puzzled ahead of me.

Still dry Thames.

Turned out that hiker also started about where I had this morning, but he had missed the trail and came out to where I was also standing a bit lost. We spent about 15 minutes meandering until we finally found the correct route where he took off and disappeared. Apparently he had enough with this elderly woman who had trouble getting her leg up and over stiles (best I hike alone to not embarrass myself).

High Water mark, when there is water in the Thames.

Lois sat on the step of the bridge over the dry Thames to take a break as it was the only spot. Thames on right side of image.

Where is the Thames? Left side, path on right.

This mornings hiker is doing the route in a different way. He has a camper with him and he drove it to tonight’s location Cricklaide. Then rode his bike back to Kemble where he locked it up. Was walking back to Cricklaide to collect his camper to drive to collect his bike and move further ahead on the route. It will be interesting to see how long this procedure lasts.

Cotswold Water Park with its 140 lakes which were created from gravel extraction might’ve been an interesting area to have walked through. But it was not. It was horribly boring, hot, although hot has nothing to do with the actual lakes, just today’s weather, The Thames River Path made its way around a number of these lakes. It might have been more appealing, had we been able to see a bit of a lake any lake.

Relief to reach The only tiny village on the route today Ashton Keynes, and that the pub White Hare was open for lunch. Sat outside under the trees and enjoyed a lovely and much needed break.

Had the Parma Ham, Pesto, and Mozzarella toastie, along with salad and crisps. Made use one of those Ziploc bags I’m carrying around and took half the sandwich with for tonight‘s dinner.

A chatty lady with two dogs came and sat right near me, and talked through the entire time I was trying to chew. I sat there with my feet up on the chair opposite and my knee brace pull down around ankle to give it a break. I thought she looked a lot like Tricia in her face, but not hair color. Made me miss family at home.

The woman lives in this tiny village and is renting her home out as an Airbnb through the summer and is staying in her camper when she has guests. Interesting idea. She said she can earn up to 7500 per year tax-free so that that’s what she does to get some extra income.

The route in the afternoon went through a tunnel of trees and brush occasionally coming out into the hot sun. There was not anywhere to sit such as in a luxury bench, a random stump, or even a fallen log. NOTHING. And a person couldn’t get off the path because there were brush with prickles on both sides and then a barbed wire fence. It was like walking through a tunnel with no end.

One and only view of the lakes.

Crazy idea people learning to waterski in southern England.

That block of hiking around lakes and tunnels of trees taking almost two hours was draining. Consumed almost all 3 of my water bottles empty.

In the fields outside Cricklaide the route went right past their feeding area. Had to ask directions a number of times to find tonight’s pillow at the White heart Inn.

Here are some of the menu items from the hotel/pub I am staying in tonight to share what menus look like here.

A bit more selection than Rusty’s,

but also higher priced.

View out my window.

Body is tired. Left foot still troublesome. Left knee starting to ache.

But life is good. Grateful to be here. Will work to achieve as much as I can and store up the memories for the long winter ahead to reflect back on. Cheers - tomorrow is a new day.